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    “Humour generates feeling of pleasure and amusement, it has the potential for the feelings to become associated with the brand and may influence consumer attitudes towards the brand and probably the image.”
    Chakraborty, Debashish. "Humour in advertising." (2014).

    For my summative project I have been researching popular trends in product and in advertising. I noticed a trend of humour that brands use almost to appear as trendy and cute, I decided it was something I would be interesting in using to do my own packaging as it allows for consumers to really see the brand as relatable and approachable. I also thought that this sort of 'cheeky' humour would work great with my selected brand Isosceles Lingerie, the naughty side of an underwear brand would be brought out amazingly with some humours packaging.

    Some great examples that I want to share are from:

    Chic and Basic


     The beautiful, minimalist and slightly irreverent design aesthetic that Barcelona's Chic & Basic Born Hotel sets up with its stunning interior layout i

    chic basic hotel barcelona

    Anatomicals
    Related imageRelated image

    Anese
    Image result for aneseImage result for anese

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    Upon research into my latest project I was analysing the new and popular lingerie trends for the upcoming seasons. I found trends that really do relate to the wider fashion landscape too, often seen on the latest catwalk shows. 

    Texture




    Fabric is adding to the sensuality of lingerie this season. Tulle, Mesh and Velvet are fabric staples, looking and feeling sensual this season. My particular favourite is the ruched detail which adds some delicate touches and the simplicity of it is gorgeous.

    Empowering Daywear



    Focus on the comfortable for every day. Women want to feel practical yet still sensual at all times. We are seeing fabric bras, often wireless for added comfort and large comfortable briefs that are still a little funner than the normal M&S pack.

    “Women want a sexy that is daily and casual,” Agathe D Muffert, director of Opaak

    Bondage



    Straps are seen everywhere and on everything. It’s no longer just seen for the bedroom, women are now wearing this underwear no matter the occasion. Strappy bras look really nice peaking out from plain t-shirts and can definitely add to the simplest of outfits.

    References:
    Jo Lynch, WGSN
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    Our main perpetrators: The Kardashians, Urban Outfitters and Balenciaga

    Just as neighbourhoods and towns have often been, there is a rise seen in the gentrification of fashion. Lets take Shoreditch for example. Contractors began buying the houses, shops and businesses from locals for very low prices as they spotted potential in the area. They then turn it around, keeping it ‘rustic’ and ‘shaggy chic’ as to keep the charm of the area. They then sell it off for much more money than they paid people for it. We call this gentrification, as vegan bakeries move in and local home owners move out due to the boost in rent.

    Image result for urban outfitters shop front

    On a high street level we see this often in Urban Outfitters. They used to be different, all the clothing felt special and never seen before, it featured designers that were unheard of and previously inaccessible. Looking around the store now I think it is totally different. The store's new look features old brands, stuff that you would get for £10 in Sports Direct for PE and would be nothing to brag about. Now these old £10 Kappa joggers are selling for £45 in Urban Outfitters, the same thing that 5 years ago would get you bullied is now being sold as an aspirational item.

    I think that this is becoming a much more occurring theme across the high streets. Topshop is trying its hand at making ‘vintage’ shell suit windbreakers and fast fashion websites like Boohoo are attempting to make ‘vintage-style’ bucket hats. I completely agree that fashion works in cycles so of course even dodgy fashions such as shell suit jackets are back in, but they were back in 3 years ago now. It feels like watching your aunt try and be ‘cool’ and ‘hip.’ These shops are simply making me cringe and I know I am not the first to notice.

     Image result for daniella westbrook burberry

    Luxury brands are of course jumping on this too. Kylie Jenner recently shared a photograph dressed fully in Fendi from head to toe to pram. She was, as usual, praised for her fashion sense. Instead, all I could think was that it looked exactly like the Daniella Westbrook image that nearly ruined Burberry’s public brand image. The only difference between the two is the money in their bank account and the is my issue here. For a rich person to dress ‘Chavy’ they are praised by every blogger out there but when someone without money does the same they are ridiculed.  

    Image result for balenciaga ss18 Related image

    Balenciaga is actually one of the brands that I think have the most to answer for. From clothing, to shoes to accessories, Balenciaga has designed something that costs hundreds just because they put their name on it. Chunky trainers that you would have been ashamed to wear in PE? Just buy the Triple S. Windbreaker Shell jacket that you would buy at a thrift shop for £8? You bet they've got it in 6 colour options for £800 each. Puffer jacket that your mum would make you wear in winter? Balenicaga already making thousands from it since Kim Kardashian was papped in it. If they were doing something different, changing it in a way that added thousands of pounds then fair enough! But they haven’t. It’s like they've just bought some stuff out of sports direct and stuck their logo on it.

    The people who made these street trends happen were not being called trendy, due to their low socioeconomic group they get absolutely no credit for building up these trends. Instead it is the designers who used them as inspiration are making millions off of fashion that people were bullied for.

    What do you think about this? Do you see it as just another cycle of fashion or a real sign of Capitalism?
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    Underwear has been worn through nearly all periods of time. Both women and men wore garments for comfort or to enhance their shapes.



    The aim of underwear in the 1800’s  was to change women’s figure completely, working to create what was seen as the ‘ideal’ feminine figure. This was done using highly uncomfortable materials such as steel cage structures called crinolines that supported wide hoop skirts. It left wearers hips bruised. In addition, most women who could afford to opted to wear corsets to shrink the appearance of their waist, often cutting off the oxygen flow, it became almost fashionable amongst young women to have your corset so tight that you fainted.

    Image result for mary phelps jacobs bra

    It was around 1890 when women’s underwear became less restrictive and women began opting for the brassiere, creating a feminine shape in a much more subtle way. The brassiere was first patented by Mary Phelps Jacob who invented it as a quick alternative when finding corsets too uncomfortable and heavy underneath her evening dress.
    Jacob’s began selling her designs to friends and family before sale became widespread, the sales peaked particularly during World War One due to the preservation of metal halting corset manufacture. Since then although the designs have changed and other styles of underwear have come and gone the bra as we refer to it now still has a huge place in women’s lives. 




    The modern styles of bra are much more suited for the individualist culture that is prominent in our current social climate. Agent Provocateur, founded in 1994, are known for their luxury, sexy lingerie. They specialise in ‘brazenly sexual’  underwear that pushes boundaries and empowers women through reclaiming their sexuality. On the other hand, stores like M&S that offer comfortable and practical underwear for the ‘everyman.’ It is affordable and therefore a much more mass-market alternative than brands such as Agent Provocateur. It does however allow for mmaller brands such as Isosceles lingerie to find their place in the markett, lingerie that is still fun, sexy but yet still fairly affordable.



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    Petra Collins is an American artist, photographer and curator who has been shooting since she was 15. Her work explores femininity and girlhood, especially in an age where women’s bodies are constantly airbrushed and edited, shared everywhere from adverts to social media.

     


    In her project, 24 Hour Psycho, Collins was investigation how femininity and female vulnerability should be celebrated instead of being shunned. She has expressed before disliked how women’s sadness is ignored and titled “hysteria”, instead she wanted to show sadness as a liberating and powerful thing for women and girls. By photographing this she was directly questioning and challenging the views that society has. In this project she wanted to capture the emotional distress that females can feel.

    “24 Hour Psycho addresses the age-old discussion of women as emotional and, therefore, inferior or suspect–somethingto be managed. By owning the flippantly dismissive term “psycho,” Collins appropriates the concept of female hysteria and celebrates it with powerful, intense and beautiful imagery of young women who have agency even in their distressed state.”
    –Ever Gold Projects



    I selected Collins’ work as it was truly inspiring research into current social issues as she identified a social issue of feminism and perception of girls, making a concept from it and created a powerful set of photographs to question it. I similarly want to find a social issue that I am passionate about myself to see what concepts I could create.

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    “Lingerie doesn’t have to be serious. It should be fun and playful and empowering” 
    Sarah Shotton for Harpers Bazar, March 22 2018.



    For my current project we were set the task to get to know some brands and to design a new scent product that would work well for them and create a story. I decided to do the independent lingerie brand named Isosceles Lingerie.

    Isosceles Lingerie is an independent label that was founded in 2015 by Cicely Travers. The lingerie designs fit the name well, the bright coloured designs fitting the body in ‘artistic geometry’ which is very visible through the tulle stretch fabric. Every layer can be see and they all flatter the form incredibly well. The colours are extremely bright, reminiscent of the 80’s fluorescents which stand out so much from the muted colours we normally see in collections.

    "Think Miami, electric lights and punchy, brain-searing shades. For such seemingly simple pieces of fabric to include and evoke such references is rare." 
    Tiah Eckhardt for Live Fast Mag, 9/5/16


    Cicely highlights the importance of her fabric choices, choosing easy to clean, sexy yet still comfortable underwear. The thought that goes in to each fabric choice makes it ideal for daily use, it its comfortable against the user for long periods of time whilst being easy to clean ensures it can be worn whenever.


    References:

     1.           Eckhardt, T. (2018). Lingerie Guide: Isosceles. [online] Live FAST Magazine - The Best of Fashion, Art, Sex and Travel. Available at: http://livefastmag.com/2016/05/lingerie-guide-isosceles/ [Accessed 26 May 2018].

     2.           http://vanjonssondesign.com/technical-advice/2016/4/4/interview-with-the-lingerie-brand-isosceles

    3.          Eckhardt, T. (2018). Lingerie Guide: Isosceles. [online] Live FAST Magazine - The Best of Fashion, Art, Sex and Travel. Available at: http://livefastmag.com/2016/05/lingerie-guide-isosceles/ [Accessed 26 May 2018].



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    We were just given the choice of 8 brands to begin our self devised product for our individual end of term brief, I was instantly drawn to the brand Ader Error although decided against selecting it for my brand as it was much like the group project brand we had created in terms of consumer and context. I was so fascinated however that I decided to do some research on it.

    Ader is a Korean streetwear cult brand, meaning that the consumers are invested in the lifestyle that the brand brings rather than just the products they sell.  Although streetwear is popular worldwide, Ader has helped cause a cultural shift in South Korea by offering unisex clothing, something unseen in South Korea prior to the brands success. It is seen in the name too, ‘Ader’ being how ‘other’ is phonetically pronounced in Korea.

    "Our brand is based on simplicity, which has minimalistic and contemporary sensibility. We focus on mishmash styling, thinking about how we can show our design and sensibility through images."
    -   -Anonymous, Ader co-founder

    Ader Error ‘has its finger on the pulse of youth culture’ (ref. 1) and has young consumers everywhere from Sweden to Japan, it has also been making waves in the UK and the USA through Instagram successes, amounting over a total of four hundred and fifty thousand followers on the app. In addition, their website design is updated often, the same designs seen across all their social media platforms too. Being so innovative online is seen as a huge part of their success so far and also the answer to their further success, seeing more room for growth with Western consumers. 


    “Ader purposefully limits each collection's production to spur desire among its clientele"
    -LA TIMES

    Ader’s success could be said to be part of the ‘drop’ culture that youths are buying in to. When looking on their website you notice that most stock is sold out, boosting you to check back in with the site periodically to find when the next clothing drop is. The young consumer base driving this exclusive trend is most often referred to as Generation Z, born anytime from 1995-2012. The most defining part of this generation is the ‘anything goes’ attitude to defining one’s self. Gender is so much more fluid, and these attitudes are being fuelled on by the Gen z. Ader has a good understanding of this generation and although the consumer in South Korea was a little less open to this gender neutrality before it is something that Ader has managed to introduce very well.


    “Millennials and Gen Z are driving the new acceptance movement, ‘I’m-perfect’, embracing unusual imperfections”-Trend Vision Forcasting.com
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    Image result for the true cost

    As the fashion industry grows, the struggle for those in the poorer parts of the world grows too. The demands that the western world of consumer culture places on the developing world has reached an all time high, with catastrophic effects as shown in the ethically critical film, The True Cost.

    I remembered as the news has hit about many of the events they mentioned within the documentary, a huge building collapses as low paid workers get trapped under the rubble, a huge fire that rips through factories with no proper health and safety procedures in place. I did not however realise how many of the main brands made their clothes within these very factories, GAP and Primark to name a few. It is all well and good that the brands offer their condolences and false promises of improvements however as the documentary shoes these are not isolated events. They are fairly often and so devastating to communities.


    There are over 40 million garment factory workers in the world at the moment, with 10% of them working in Bangladesh. It is spoken as an issue mainly for female workers as 85% of these factory workers are female. They earn less than £3 a day. In England, that is the price of an average lunch. It is pocket change whilst for some they have to raise a family on that money alone. The ideas of unions are only just emerging, workers demands barely getting listened to and reports of violence and abuse have risen out of many factories. The documentary featured a worker retelling how they were locked in a room and attacked with chairs and other furniture items, unlike the UK where policing is high, these workers still had to go back the next day and work for these same employers as they needed the money.

    Livia Firth, a big campaigner at the moment, has been urging the fashion industry to make changes that last. She has been using her platform to critique fast fashion and to right the 'social justice destruction' that has been happening.


    In addition to the human cost, the effects the fashion industry has on the environment is shocking. Clothing factories are dumping tons of dyes and chemicals into local water works, the same streams and rivers in which people rely on for drinking and bathing. That polluted water is being consumed by those who cannot afford to filter or pay for luxury bottled water. They have no choice and are most likely oblivious to the effects that the chemicals can do to themselves and their families.

    With 1 in 6 working in the global fashion industry, we need to do more to protect those without a voice. They are silenced due to their low social standing and desperate to do anything that might protect their families. We need to do more.
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    This week we have come to the end of our project that we've been working on over the past few months. My brand is called Oppidan and we developed a story of it being a streetwear style fragrance brand, our products were 2 portable fragrance cards that could fit in wallets, pockets and small bags, one titled 10am for day time and one titled 10pm more suited for evening use.
    This was our mocked up product:


    We were given an opportunity to have a studio shoot with a professional photographer, talked about more in detail in my previous blog post. This was a great experience for us and the photos came out amazingly, we were really pleased with their simplicity and it gave us a lot of opportunity for some really cool post production. We also conducted a second shoot around Nottingham to collect some more Urban inspired images as well as some short clips to work into our presentation. In addition to these, one group member conducted a photoshoot of her flat mate around Lace Market in Nottingham, NG1. This was a really important area to us because we felt like our shop would fit in perfectly around this particular area. We edited these so they worked as promotional images for our Instagram and website.



    We created a poster that we planned to flypast and post in bus stop advertising too. We decided to do this as we felt our consumers would see this the most as they are young and would use public transportation over their own cars.




    We also mocked up a store front that we planned would be placed in Lace Market, NG1. The shop would also double as event space where we planned to hold our opening launch parties. The 10AM launch party would include the fragrance drop as well as a range of creative workshops ran by industry professionals. The 10PM even would be based on performances by artists that we see as aligning with our brand.


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    About Me

    Nottingham based fashion student, looking to break into the PR and social media careers. Particularly interested in trend, culture and events.

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