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    Image result for the true cost

    As the fashion industry grows, the struggle for those in the poorer parts of the world grows too. The demands that the western world of consumer culture places on the developing world has reached an all time high, with catastrophic effects as shown in the ethically critical film, The True Cost.

    I remembered as the news has hit about many of the events they mentioned within the documentary, a huge building collapses as low paid workers get trapped under the rubble, a huge fire that rips through factories with no proper health and safety procedures in place. I did not however realise how many of the main brands made their clothes within these very factories, GAP and Primark to name a few. It is all well and good that the brands offer their condolences and false promises of improvements however as the documentary shoes these are not isolated events. They are fairly often and so devastating to communities.


    There are over 40 million garment factory workers in the world at the moment, with 10% of them working in Bangladesh. It is spoken as an issue mainly for female workers as 85% of these factory workers are female. They earn less than £3 a day. In England, that is the price of an average lunch. It is pocket change whilst for some they have to raise a family on that money alone. The ideas of unions are only just emerging, workers demands barely getting listened to and reports of violence and abuse have risen out of many factories. The documentary featured a worker retelling how they were locked in a room and attacked with chairs and other furniture items, unlike the UK where policing is high, these workers still had to go back the next day and work for these same employers as they needed the money.

    Livia Firth, a big campaigner at the moment, has been urging the fashion industry to make changes that last. She has been using her platform to critique fast fashion and to right the 'social justice destruction' that has been happening.


    In addition to the human cost, the effects the fashion industry has on the environment is shocking. Clothing factories are dumping tons of dyes and chemicals into local water works, the same streams and rivers in which people rely on for drinking and bathing. That polluted water is being consumed by those who cannot afford to filter or pay for luxury bottled water. They have no choice and are most likely oblivious to the effects that the chemicals can do to themselves and their families.

    With 1 in 6 working in the global fashion industry, we need to do more to protect those without a voice. They are silenced due to their low social standing and desperate to do anything that might protect their families. We need to do more.
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    Image result for the house of z
    The documentary, featured on Netflix, followed the career rise and fall of the designer Zac Posner. I recognised the name however was not overly familiar with his work, I did however then recognise him from being a judge on Project Runway. The documentary trailer seemed to show drama and huge scandal in his career so I was very excited to watch.

    "Not all models and lipstick and fishtail gowns"

    The first part of the documentary followed Zac from childhood, it showed his passion to create clothing for dolls and showed how this developed into a real passion for the fashion industry. His family all got involved in this and helped him to create his first collection using their own money, it featured at the 2001 Gen Art show and got a lot of media attraction due to Posens own connections, for example his best friends mother was actually Anna Wintour so many industry high ups were there.


    I think that the documentary highlighted very nicely the uncertainty that people felt about Zac himself, it was no doubt that his clothes were impressive, it was his personality that left me and others doubting. He came across a little too arrogant however this then seemed fair as his career sky rocketed, allowing him to expand his business with investors such as P Diddy (Sean Combs.)
    As the brand grew, the issues did too. Around 2007, the once positive press suddenly turned against Posen, both his business and his personality as a designer. Posen’s family had a falling out over the brand, the designs began to get slated and labelled as too over the top and unoriginal. He had lost sight of what made him talented in the first place.



    I do think this was a very important message about being true to yourself rather than just sticking to the trends of the catwalk, this was his downfall and could be the downfall of so many others. The effects of the recession also hit, buyers no longer could carryout such large risky orders, this effected Posen’s income greatly. As a way to try and appear more consumer friendly he worked to do a collaboration with Target and, as he called it, ‘whored himself out’ through advertising and sponsorships. Ultimately, he was unhappy because it was not what he wanted from his life.


    I really did want Posen to turn it around during the 2014 fashion week show and was very grateful when he managed to take a step back, revaluate his style and managed to create a ‘make or break’ collection that worked to make him be remembered as an amazing and skilled designer. The media supported him and so did anyone that had doubted him. It was a huge win for him personally and after following the whole journey I was very pleased to see it. The documentary even made a point to highlight how happy he was now, designing dresses for many big influencers and working in a way that he really enjoys.
    The documentary was not as drama-packed as the trailer showed it to be, however it was very insightful into what a difficult industry fashion is. Your work and your character are judged frequently and any slipups are highlighted hugely on those catwalks.

    I would recommend it to anyone who is interested in that side of the industry.


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    During the summer many of the big fashion houses bought out their new season campaigns. I saw the Business of Fashion's top summer fashion film list the Gucci fall campaign as the number one campaign bought out in summer, I decided to watch it for myself to see if it lived up to the hype.

    Image result for gucci fashion film 2017

    https://youtu.be/w3m-feTXo4E

    I loved the energy and life in this video. From the very first shot, there is an excitement that rises with the soulful music. The clothes are all beautiful and detailed, the shoes especially although they do look a tad out of place in the 'working class' Northern Soul scene they were trying to emulate.

    I do however feel slightly unsettled as I watched the video. The majority of the cast were black, this would be a brilliant success in terms of colour equality in the big fashion houses however Gucci have before been slated for 'white washing' and using white majority models on their catwalks. The Youtube comments did agree that it felt as if Gucci used a part of black culture just to sell their clothes. They used black models just to create an 'edgy' fashion film before just going back to their usual antics of ignoring black people all together.

    Image result for gucci pre fall 2017

    I understand completely wanting to celebrate a culture that you're not born into, and I think that celebration is always welcome. However, my doubts are due to the fact that Gucci is not known to usually be so celebratory. I just cannot shake the feeling that Gucci used all the gorgeous models as tools to calm any usual uproar about their all white casts.

    What is your opinion on this? Do you think I am being too sensitive?

    Lydia
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    About Me

    Nottingham based fashion student, looking to break into the PR and social media careers. Particularly interested in trend, culture and events.

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