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    Our main perpetrators: The Kardashians, Urban Outfitters and Balenciaga

    Just as neighbourhoods and towns have often been, there is a rise seen in the gentrification of fashion. Lets take Shoreditch for example. Contractors began buying the houses, shops and businesses from locals for very low prices as they spotted potential in the area. They then turn it around, keeping it ‘rustic’ and ‘shaggy chic’ as to keep the charm of the area. They then sell it off for much more money than they paid people for it. We call this gentrification, as vegan bakeries move in and local home owners move out due to the boost in rent.

    Image result for urban outfitters shop front

    On a high street level we see this often in Urban Outfitters. They used to be different, all the clothing felt special and never seen before, it featured designers that were unheard of and previously inaccessible. Looking around the store now I think it is totally different. The store's new look features old brands, stuff that you would get for £10 in Sports Direct for PE and would be nothing to brag about. Now these old £10 Kappa joggers are selling for £45 in Urban Outfitters, the same thing that 5 years ago would get you bullied is now being sold as an aspirational item.

    I think that this is becoming a much more occurring theme across the high streets. Topshop is trying its hand at making ‘vintage’ shell suit windbreakers and fast fashion websites like Boohoo are attempting to make ‘vintage-style’ bucket hats. I completely agree that fashion works in cycles so of course even dodgy fashions such as shell suit jackets are back in, but they were back in 3 years ago now. It feels like watching your aunt try and be ‘cool’ and ‘hip.’ These shops are simply making me cringe and I know I am not the first to notice.

     Image result for daniella westbrook burberry

    Luxury brands are of course jumping on this too. Kylie Jenner recently shared a photograph dressed fully in Fendi from head to toe to pram. She was, as usual, praised for her fashion sense. Instead, all I could think was that it looked exactly like the Daniella Westbrook image that nearly ruined Burberry’s public brand image. The only difference between the two is the money in their bank account and the is my issue here. For a rich person to dress ‘Chavy’ they are praised by every blogger out there but when someone without money does the same they are ridiculed.  

    Image result for balenciaga ss18 Related image

    Balenciaga is actually one of the brands that I think have the most to answer for. From clothing, to shoes to accessories, Balenciaga has designed something that costs hundreds just because they put their name on it. Chunky trainers that you would have been ashamed to wear in PE? Just buy the Triple S. Windbreaker Shell jacket that you would buy at a thrift shop for £8? You bet they've got it in 6 colour options for £800 each. Puffer jacket that your mum would make you wear in winter? Balenicaga already making thousands from it since Kim Kardashian was papped in it. If they were doing something different, changing it in a way that added thousands of pounds then fair enough! But they haven’t. It’s like they've just bought some stuff out of sports direct and stuck their logo on it.

    The people who made these street trends happen were not being called trendy, due to their low socioeconomic group they get absolutely no credit for building up these trends. Instead it is the designers who used them as inspiration are making millions off of fashion that people were bullied for.

    What do you think about this? Do you see it as just another cycle of fashion or a real sign of Capitalism?
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    To sum it up in one word I would have to say the show was memorable. It was shocking and magical with an ere of mystery to it too. It was well planned and gorgeous and gory and just fascinating to watch, Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele did an amazing job at making a show to put Gucci in history books.




    The first glimpse I had of the show was on @diet_pradas Instagram story. It was a short video that featured a masked thing covered in expensive almost oriental looking designs and I was as shocked as I was fascinated. If it wasn't for the embellishments and subtle touches I never would have believed it was Gucci, it seemed way too out there for the brand to do as it completely turned it's back on the high elegance and sophisticated cuts that the brand normally display.

    The thing that made the most headlines were the special effects and the catwalks design itself. It was set up in a Surgery room where the models walked past a surgery table and equipment. The accessories where a little different from the normal clutch bags and earnings, instead models held replicas of their own heads, chameleons and even dragons.

    Image result for gucci fall autumn 2018/19

    I saw so many references through the collection whether intentional or not, the cut of this jacket along with the dragon screamed Game of Thrones to me. The show has been so popular in the past few years and this seemed like a real nod to it. I even saw people on twitter see the image below as reference to Harry Potter, the model and head seems as if it is a progression of the Weasley family.

    Image result for gucci 2018 Milan Fashion Week

    "Severed heads are SOOOOO next season!" 
    -Joshwa Saint James.

    Image result for Gucci 2018 Fall Winter Collection Runway Fashion Week Alessandro Michele vogue

    To see what the show looked like, you can view it on youtube below here.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z7rWJoI3N3Q


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    During the summer many of the big fashion houses bought out their new season campaigns. I saw the Business of Fashion's top summer fashion film list the Gucci fall campaign as the number one campaign bought out in summer, I decided to watch it for myself to see if it lived up to the hype.

    Image result for gucci fashion film 2017

    https://youtu.be/w3m-feTXo4E

    I loved the energy and life in this video. From the very first shot, there is an excitement that rises with the soulful music. The clothes are all beautiful and detailed, the shoes especially although they do look a tad out of place in the 'working class' Northern Soul scene they were trying to emulate.

    I do however feel slightly unsettled as I watched the video. The majority of the cast were black, this would be a brilliant success in terms of colour equality in the big fashion houses however Gucci have before been slated for 'white washing' and using white majority models on their catwalks. The Youtube comments did agree that it felt as if Gucci used a part of black culture just to sell their clothes. They used black models just to create an 'edgy' fashion film before just going back to their usual antics of ignoring black people all together.

    Image result for gucci pre fall 2017

    I understand completely wanting to celebrate a culture that you're not born into, and I think that celebration is always welcome. However, my doubts are due to the fact that Gucci is not known to usually be so celebratory. I just cannot shake the feeling that Gucci used all the gorgeous models as tools to calm any usual uproar about their all white casts.

    What is your opinion on this? Do you think I am being too sensitive?

    Lydia
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    About Me

    Nottingham based fashion student, looking to break into the PR and social media careers. Particularly interested in trend, culture and events.

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