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    “Lingerie doesn’t have to be serious. It should be fun and playful and empowering” 
    Sarah Shotton for Harpers Bazar, March 22 2018.



    For my current project we were set the task to get to know some brands and to design a new scent product that would work well for them and create a story. I decided to do the independent lingerie brand named Isosceles Lingerie.

    Isosceles Lingerie is an independent label that was founded in 2015 by Cicely Travers. The lingerie designs fit the name well, the bright coloured designs fitting the body in ‘artistic geometry’ which is very visible through the tulle stretch fabric. Every layer can be see and they all flatter the form incredibly well. The colours are extremely bright, reminiscent of the 80’s fluorescents which stand out so much from the muted colours we normally see in collections.

    "Think Miami, electric lights and punchy, brain-searing shades. For such seemingly simple pieces of fabric to include and evoke such references is rare." 
    Tiah Eckhardt for Live Fast Mag, 9/5/16


    Cicely highlights the importance of her fabric choices, choosing easy to clean, sexy yet still comfortable underwear. The thought that goes in to each fabric choice makes it ideal for daily use, it its comfortable against the user for long periods of time whilst being easy to clean ensures it can be worn whenever.


    References:

     1.           Eckhardt, T. (2018). Lingerie Guide: Isosceles. [online] Live FAST Magazine - The Best of Fashion, Art, Sex and Travel. Available at: http://livefastmag.com/2016/05/lingerie-guide-isosceles/ [Accessed 26 May 2018].

     2.           http://vanjonssondesign.com/technical-advice/2016/4/4/interview-with-the-lingerie-brand-isosceles

    3.          Eckhardt, T. (2018). Lingerie Guide: Isosceles. [online] Live FAST Magazine - The Best of Fashion, Art, Sex and Travel. Available at: http://livefastmag.com/2016/05/lingerie-guide-isosceles/ [Accessed 26 May 2018].



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    Image result for the true cost

    As the fashion industry grows, the struggle for those in the poorer parts of the world grows too. The demands that the western world of consumer culture places on the developing world has reached an all time high, with catastrophic effects as shown in the ethically critical film, The True Cost.

    I remembered as the news has hit about many of the events they mentioned within the documentary, a huge building collapses as low paid workers get trapped under the rubble, a huge fire that rips through factories with no proper health and safety procedures in place. I did not however realise how many of the main brands made their clothes within these very factories, GAP and Primark to name a few. It is all well and good that the brands offer their condolences and false promises of improvements however as the documentary shoes these are not isolated events. They are fairly often and so devastating to communities.


    There are over 40 million garment factory workers in the world at the moment, with 10% of them working in Bangladesh. It is spoken as an issue mainly for female workers as 85% of these factory workers are female. They earn less than £3 a day. In England, that is the price of an average lunch. It is pocket change whilst for some they have to raise a family on that money alone. The ideas of unions are only just emerging, workers demands barely getting listened to and reports of violence and abuse have risen out of many factories. The documentary featured a worker retelling how they were locked in a room and attacked with chairs and other furniture items, unlike the UK where policing is high, these workers still had to go back the next day and work for these same employers as they needed the money.

    Livia Firth, a big campaigner at the moment, has been urging the fashion industry to make changes that last. She has been using her platform to critique fast fashion and to right the 'social justice destruction' that has been happening.


    In addition to the human cost, the effects the fashion industry has on the environment is shocking. Clothing factories are dumping tons of dyes and chemicals into local water works, the same streams and rivers in which people rely on for drinking and bathing. That polluted water is being consumed by those who cannot afford to filter or pay for luxury bottled water. They have no choice and are most likely oblivious to the effects that the chemicals can do to themselves and their families.

    With 1 in 6 working in the global fashion industry, we need to do more to protect those without a voice. They are silenced due to their low social standing and desperate to do anything that might protect their families. We need to do more.
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    Image result for the house of z
    The documentary, featured on Netflix, followed the career rise and fall of the designer Zac Posner. I recognised the name however was not overly familiar with his work, I did however then recognise him from being a judge on Project Runway. The documentary trailer seemed to show drama and huge scandal in his career so I was very excited to watch.

    "Not all models and lipstick and fishtail gowns"

    The first part of the documentary followed Zac from childhood, it showed his passion to create clothing for dolls and showed how this developed into a real passion for the fashion industry. His family all got involved in this and helped him to create his first collection using their own money, it featured at the 2001 Gen Art show and got a lot of media attraction due to Posens own connections, for example his best friends mother was actually Anna Wintour so many industry high ups were there.


    I think that the documentary highlighted very nicely the uncertainty that people felt about Zac himself, it was no doubt that his clothes were impressive, it was his personality that left me and others doubting. He came across a little too arrogant however this then seemed fair as his career sky rocketed, allowing him to expand his business with investors such as P Diddy (Sean Combs.)
    As the brand grew, the issues did too. Around 2007, the once positive press suddenly turned against Posen, both his business and his personality as a designer. Posen’s family had a falling out over the brand, the designs began to get slated and labelled as too over the top and unoriginal. He had lost sight of what made him talented in the first place.



    I do think this was a very important message about being true to yourself rather than just sticking to the trends of the catwalk, this was his downfall and could be the downfall of so many others. The effects of the recession also hit, buyers no longer could carryout such large risky orders, this effected Posen’s income greatly. As a way to try and appear more consumer friendly he worked to do a collaboration with Target and, as he called it, ‘whored himself out’ through advertising and sponsorships. Ultimately, he was unhappy because it was not what he wanted from his life.


    I really did want Posen to turn it around during the 2014 fashion week show and was very grateful when he managed to take a step back, revaluate his style and managed to create a ‘make or break’ collection that worked to make him be remembered as an amazing and skilled designer. The media supported him and so did anyone that had doubted him. It was a huge win for him personally and after following the whole journey I was very pleased to see it. The documentary even made a point to highlight how happy he was now, designing dresses for many big influencers and working in a way that he really enjoys.
    The documentary was not as drama-packed as the trailer showed it to be, however it was very insightful into what a difficult industry fashion is. Your work and your character are judged frequently and any slipups are highlighted hugely on those catwalks.

    I would recommend it to anyone who is interested in that side of the industry.


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    I am a huge fan of the Instagram account (now insta verified) Diet Prada.

    The anonymous account calls out fashion issues such as fashion copycats and ethical issues in the fashion community, naming and shaming very publicly any brands or persons who have been seen as doing wrong. It has got them into heat with many people in the industry however, arguments often kick off in the comments section as brands lash back, unhappy with the negative critique put out about them.

    I do adore the account, I think that everything they are saying seems more than fair. There is inspiration and then there is straight plagiarism and some of the comparisons they post are almost identical. They know their stuff about fashion and about brands and are not afraid to show it.
    As the account themselves put it;

    “When it’s from a place of love (and credited) its inspiration. If you’re trying to keep the reference quiet and cash in off of someone else’s proven success, then you’re into theft territory.” 
    @diet_prada for highsnobiety.com

    Gucci have been one of their most serial offenders, from stealing patterns, designs and logos from many smaller brands. It has also been  huge few years for Gucci so the stolen designs have obviously been doing them well, but thankfully they have to deal with the embarrassment of Diet Prada outing them to their 250K followers. They even invited Diet Prada to do an Instagram Takeover for them, to spot the references of their new collections. This transparency is all that consumers and the account ask for.

    I believe the account is reflective of the society we live in now, we are self-policing and stopping injustice where we see it. If @diet_prada was not calling out the copycats, who would? Would brands be less careful with their copied designs and campaigns? I'm grateful that with Diet Prada around we won't have to know.

    Keep up the great work! It's like a modern day Gossip Girl,
    XOXO
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    The trend, Techno Futuristic, can be traced through history. It could be suggested that it is seen in nearly all eras, every one taking some form of  prediction the future of life, fashion and technology in one form or another.

    One of the earliest traces of Modernism can be seen in 1909. Futurism began to rise in Italy, headed by Fillippo Tommaso Marintetti and his Futurist Manifesto that was seen in many Italian newspapers. The movement reflected in art, fashion, poetry, literature and many other genres. The idea of this fashion came from a manifesto by Giacomo Balla and was titled “Il Vestito Antineutrale.” It would be to abolish 'boring' clothing and to instead embrace unique and dynamic clothing to express excitement, action and courage. It can be argued that the fashion never really took off however it was still an early look at the expected Future of fashion.
    Image result for futurist manifesto
     The Manifesto of Futurism, Filippo Tommaso Marinetti



    1914 Giacomo Balla's fashion ideas


    This mindset can be said to have developed from the acceptance and welcomeness of Modernity, the futurists wanted to move far from the past and into the new. This forward thinking headed a huge shift in thinking and a new insight into all parts of art.


    Antonio Sant'elia's idea of Futurist architecture

    Giacomo Balla, Abstract Speed + Sound, 1913–1914

    A large rise in the futurist trend was seen again in the 60’s, triggered by the political instability of JFK’s death, the cold war and the space race (which projected images of man on the moon worldwide.) It is clear how these images would inspire designers as dreams of man in space materialised into real life. 


    The Miami News front page, May 25th 1961

    Cape Canaveral, Florida, February 1962. (NASA)

    André Courrèges was said to have brought the space trend into Paris, flooding the market with plastic boots, A-line cuts and vinyl fabric. This was the 'fad' of the time and was seen on catwalks, magazines and celebrity. People such as Twiggy were icons for the trend in Britain, inspired by British designers who embraced the geometric patterns such as Mary Quant.



    Diana Ross wearing André Courrèges, 1966.

    Twiggy, modelling for André Courrèges 1960's


     Image result for mary quant mini
    The infamous 'Mini' by designer Mary Quant

    It could be argued that the techno futuristic trend has cycled back in a similar way to this era, with talk of Russian election hacking, fake news and general doubt over  fashion has been seen to be taking the futuristic tone seen in Chanel’s 2017 space themed fashion show and Louis Vuitton’s AW14 Men's Matrix influenced fashion.

     Chanel AW17/18


    Chanel AW17/18

    Louis Vuitton AW 14

    What do you think of the Techno Futuristic fashion? Does it interest you?
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    Corinne Day was a British fashion and documentary photographer who produced a wide variety of works, although I am most interested in her personal investigation project named ‘Diary’ as well as a project compiled by friends after her death titled ‘May the circle remain unbroken’. These projects feature photographs of her friends and herself during very personal moments, such as when she was diagnosed with a brain tumor, in which she eventually died from in 2010. Due to the personal nature of her photography, I see her works as a personal investigation as she captures and displays her very personal moments as a documentary of her life.


    The strong red toning in this image gives it an emotive theme immediately as the colour gives connotations of strong emotions. The angle of the image is skewed which gives the viewer a discomfort that fits with the images subject of ‘Tara crying at home.’ The frame and note on the bottom, in what I assume to be Day’s handwriting shows just how personal this collection of images was as the reality of the moment is shown, it was not staged for the photo.


    I think this image is very interesting and confrontational in subject as well as composition. The male breaks the black background and disturbs the image, especially with the strong blue of the T-shirt and the red blood seen on his skin. By the model being placed in the middle it does not create harmony in the image, instead makes an uncomfortable feeling for the viewer.



    The intimacy of this project inspired me to do a photo shoot similarly, capturing many parts of my summer and collating it into a project like Day’s work.

    My image

    My image

    My image

    My image

    My image 

    My image


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    Nottingham based fashion student, looking to break into the PR and social media careers. Particularly interested in trend, culture and events.

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